dmz

the dmz trip was definitely an experience.  we left early in the morning and after 1-2 hour bus ride (fell asleep so not sure how long exactly), we ended up close to the north korean border in the demilitarized zone.  on the way up there our tour guide explained that they have barb wire along the river to keep out the north koreans.  apparently in the past some swam down the river and then killed some important lady. 

our first stop for the day was at imjingak, the bridge of freedom and lookout.  since many south koreans were separated from their families in the north after the war this is where they can come to pay tribute to their relatives.  additionally, this bridge is where repatriated pows/soldiers returned from the north.

on our drive to the next stop we drove by the unification bridge (aka cow bridge). interesting story we were told was that the founder of hyundai had stolen one cow from north korea back in the day. he had felt guilty all these years since his company had become successful (thanks in part to the cow).  to alleviate his guilt he sent 1,001 cow across the bridge into north korea.  1 cow as repayment and 1000 as interest.

our next stop was at dorasan station.  i think it is totally crazy that they already built this whole train station for some future unknown date.  the station was built as the northern most station in south korea and the symbolic stop on the way north.  currently no trains go through this station to the north, only a few from seoul to dorasan for tourist purposes only.  they even had a picture of george bush (w) at the dedication.

we then went to the lookout over north korea.  we were only allowed to take pictures behind the yellow line (pictured below) which was far from the edge so the picutre i took is hard to see.  also didnt help that it was a VERY foggy day.  some highlights from this lookout included 1. a fake town the north koreans had made to demonstrate that north korea was successful and high tech 2. large statue of kim il seong 3. gaeseong industrial park and residence.  the gaeseong industrial park and residence was a very interesting concepts.  essentially, companies (like hyundai) from south korea have set up manufacturing operations in the north to leverage the cheap labor in the north.  they send up south korean workers to manage the operations.


our last stop was at the 3rd infiltration tunnel.  apparently the north has dug a bunch of tunnels to the south.  the tunnel runs south of panmunjom and was designed for a surprise attack on seoul from the north.  to date only four tunnels have been found; however, it is suspected there are many more (many years between each discovery).  before we went into the tunnel we watched this video on the dmz and north/south korea.  it was clearly propoganda - much like the whole tour talking about how nice it would be to reunite and return to one korea, etc.  very weird.  after the video and quick museum tour we went in the tunnel.  we were not allowed to take pictures in the tunnel so i will do my best to describe it.  we had to lock up all our belongings and then put on helmets before we were allowed down.  the helmets were clutch as i hit my head probably 20 times while down there.  we first walked down this really steep and modern (clean and perfect looking) ramp type part of the tunnel.  once we were down in tunnel about 300meters it became the "real tunnel."  it was dark and dingy and after we walked a bit further there was a blockade with video cameras.  we could look through a small opening and see another blockade on the other side.  apparently, they continuously monitor this and if any south koreans come they will flood the tunnel with water to protect themselves.  it was kinda creepy because as you were walking you heard lots of weird nosies from above, it was a tight space and you could hear running water.  the north koreans monitor the tunnel from the other blockade.

so why are there tunnels?  initially north korea denied building the tunnels and then put black "coal" paint on the walls to say they were drilling for coal.  who knows the truth?  i am sure the north has a different version of the tunnels - saying the south created it.

unfortunately we couldnt go to panmunjom given security concerns (a lot of verbiage coming out of north korea while we were there) and the need to register way in advance.